On a sunny Sunday in Tokyo’s affluent Ginza neighborhood, a string of young people line the block outside the area’s famed Kabukiza theater. But the masses aren’t there to see a show — they’ve lined up (some for around two hours) to get a seat at the Kissa You cafe.

A neon-green sign that says “You” in cursive writing hangs over the door, and a team of young waitresses in white aprons cater to the patrons. This kissaten (a particular style of traditional Japanese cafe) h